Glossary: Perfumery Terms
Perfumery terms define an olfactory type, substance, or method for making perfume. Learn more about key perfume characteristics here.
Absolute
A product obtained through an extraction with volatile solvents. This technique was developed in the early 20th century. Absolutes belong to the rare and precious raw materials family. For instance, in the case of a Turkish rose, one requires 900kg of petals to obtain one kilo of absolute.
Accord
A blend of a minimum of two fragrant materials leading to a specific olfactory outcome.
Base
A blend of several raw materials including synthetic molecules. Bases were formulated by perfume laboratories in the 1940s and 1950s to help perfumers when composing new fragrances.
Base Notes
Those notes that are the most persistent in perfumes. They form the foundation upon which the whole composition rests. They can last a few days and form the long-lasting imprint of the fragrance. Base notes are spicy, woody, amber or musk.
Citrus
Citrus perfumes are compositions based on lemon, orange, bergamot, grapefruit or mandarin.
Concrete
A product obtained from the extraction of plants, using volatile solvents. The concrete can be integrated as such in a fragrance, but more often than not, it is an intermediary step when making an absolute.
Core Notes
Refers to those notes that assert themselves as the top notes fade. Not as volatile as the top notes, they can last a few hours. Core notes are mainly floral, fruity or spicy.
Chypre
An accord mainly comprising oak moss, bergamot, labdanum, patchouli, rose.
Distillation
An extraction method that allows one to collect essential oils of fresh or dried plants by steam evaporation.
Eau de Cologne
A perfume that originated from Köln, Germany. Eau de Cologne is a formula primarily consisting of 80–90% hesperidic notes and is the lightest way to wear scent, at 2–6% formula to alcohol.
Eau de Toilette
A term used by perfume brands to refer to fragrances whose concentration usually stands between 5% and 10%.
Eau de Parfum
A term used by perfume brands to refer to fragrances whose concentration usually stands between 10% and 20%. This designation dates back to the late 1970s.
Essential Oils
A product obtained following the steam distillation of fresh or dried plants.
Extract
The most concentrated form of perfume, with a concentration exceeding 20%. A few drops are enough to reveal the perfume over a very long period and create an alchemy with the wearer's skin.
Fougère
Derives from the perfume Fougère Royale created by Houbigant in 1882. Mainly structured around lemon, lavender, geranium and a coumarin accord. Today, this term is used to describe fresh men's perfumes.
Headspace
A technology developed in the 1970s that captures the scent of living odors. It allows perfumers to analyze and then recreate certain smells using an apparatus resembling a bell jar.
Hesperidic
Hesperidic perfumes are perfumes which contain hesperidic notes, which is another word for citrus.
Maceration
The time required for a perfume — the perfume concentrate mixed with alcohol — to stabilize and realize its full potential from an olfactive standpoint.
Maturation
The time required for a perfume concentrate to stabilize and realize its full potential from an olfactive standpoint. This step takes place prior to maceration.
Molecular Distillation
A technique that allows one to rework essences and absolutes to get rid of undesired facets and obtain very pure raw materials.
Natural
The terms natural, or naturals, are used to describe raw materials that come from a natural plant. Most perfumes have both natural and synthetic parts.
Olfactory
Of, or relating to, the sense of smell.
Olfactive Families
A classification system used by many perfumery professionals. Perfumes are organized in families according to their dominant notes: cologne, floral, woody, amber, chypre, etc.
Parfum
The most concentrated form of perfume, with a concentration exceeding 20%. See also: Extract.
Resinoid
A paste obtained after an extraction using volatile solvents, which is then used to make absolute (example: benzoin resinoid).
Synthetic
Raw materials created by perfume laboratories. Synthetic raw materials appeared in the late 19th century and allowed perfumers to create the first abstract fragrances and access a growing range of smells.
Top Notes
Refers to the most volatile notes — the first notes one smells when discovering a fragrance and applying it to the skin. Top notes are mainly fresh and invigorating, such as citric notes, green notes or aromatic notes.